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The Ultimate Solo Snowboarder’s Guide to Traveling to Hakuba Valley, Japan (without a car)
Japan

The Ultimate Solo Snowboarder’s Guide to Traveling to Hakuba Valley, Japan (without a car)

Japan, Ski/Snowboard, Snowboarding Around the World

Welcome to my ultimate guide to Hakuba Valley, Japan for first-time visitors and solo snowboarders and skiers! This is my fifth stop on my Snowboarding Around the World Trip and my second destination in Japan. Not a lot of people might recognize the name but Hakuba Valley was the main resort of the 1998 Winter Olympics. As a kid, I remember it being referred to the Nagano Olympics but had no idea it was held specifically in Hakuba Valley.

 

Things to Buy In Preparation for Your Trip

These are the items that I bought specifically for my trip that made my life easier. 

  1. Apple AirTags: I put one in my suitcase, my camera bag, my snowboard bag, and in my purse
  2. Lock: I use this when I want to lock up my snowboard to the ski racks. Also good if you are staying at a hostel and want to lock up your bags.
  3. Snowboarding Backpack: I got this backpack because I wanted something small and waterproof. This is definitely good if you drink a lot of water. Otherwise, I feel like there’s not much room for any of your stuff. I would say this is a great backpack if you just need water, but if you like to bring extra lenses, clothes, etc., there won’t be room for it.
  4. Tall Waterproof Boots: Since I’m going to be living in the snow, I figured I would finally spend some money on some decent waterproof boots. I like these a lot since they are lightweight for traveling.
  5. Stylish Winter Boots: I wanted to buy another pair of boots that were more for the city for when I want to go out. and these definitely fit the bill! They are a tad bit heavier than the ones above but they look so cool that I couldn’t resist getting both pairs of boots.
  6. Down Coat: Since I was lugging A LOT of stuff, I could only afford to bring one decent coat and I ended up purchasing this one. Yes, it was an investment but I wanted something that can last me multiple seasons and that will keep me super warm. I will say that it’s a little snug so if you plan on layering a lot underneath, I would go up one size.
  7. Snowboard: I didn’t buy this snowboard specifically for this trip, but in case anyone was wondering what board I’m riding, it’s the Bataleon Push Up.
  8. Lotion for Dry Skin: Do NOT underestimate how dry your skin will get being up on the mountain all the time. I’ve tried a bunch of different lotions and this is the only one I keep buying.
  9. Bandage: If anyone else has the same issue with their fingers cracking, this was a godsend. Never used this before in my life but now I carry it with me every snowboarding season.

 

Yamato Transport (aka Yamato Black Cat): Shipping Your Skis/Snowboard

If you haven’t already heard, there is an amazing delivery service called Yamato Transport, or Yamato Black Cat in reference to their black cat logo. You can drop off your skis or snowboard, and they will deliver them to your accommodations. I love that it is relatively affordable and can be delivered within 1-2 days depending on where you are sending it. The best part is that Yamato Black Cat locations are at almost every major place, including airports, hotels, and convenience stores.

Once I landed at Haneda Airport, I went to the Yamato Transport counter and gave them the address of where I wanted my snowboard bag sent. It cost ¥2,900 to ship it from Haneda Airport to Nozawa Onsen, plus ¥450 for the mandatory snowboard cover. In total, it cost ¥3,350, or about $22 USD. From Nozawa Onsen, I then carried my bag with me to Hakuba Valley.

I absolutely LOVE this service! Especially if you are a solo traveler and have no one to help you carry your stuff, this is an absolute lifesaver. I also get super stressed about lugging my snowboard bag onto the train since it takes up so much room. I never know if there will be space for my bag or if it will get in people’s way. This is definitely a convenience I am willing to pay for.

Yamato Transport Haneda Airport (Yamato Black Cat)
Yamato Transport Haneda Airport (Yamato Black Cat)

 

What Area Should You Stay in Hakuba Valley, Japan

First and foremost, it helps to understand that Hakuba Valley is made up of 10 different resorts. A few are connected, but most are not, so you cannot ski through all 10. There is a free ski shuttle that runs between the resorts, but you will still need to rely on the bus system if you plan to visit multiple mountains. Because of that, I highly recommend staying somewhere close to a bus stop that services multiple lines.

I ultimately chose Echoland because it seemed to have the highest concentration of restaurants, bars, and nightlife. I can only speak from my experience, but I genuinely loved staying in Echoland and would probably choose it again. Also, my accommodation was conveniently located near two ski bus lines, and I was close enough to the main commercial strip to walk to dinner every night. As a solo traveler, I always felt safe and never had any issues.

 

 

Where Did I Stay in Hakuba Valley, Japan

If you get the chance to stay in the same place, you are going to love the owner! He is such a sweet old man and is always trying to help as much as possible. Since I was traveling by myself, I asked if he could pick me up from the bus station and he did! He also dropped me off on the day I left, which was super helpful, especially with my heavy snowboard bag.

The property itself does not have a kitchen for guests, so be aware of that. However, the owner does operate a small Italian restaurant if you don’t want to go out. I ended up going out every night, so I didn’t get a chance to try his restaurant.

The pension is very close to the main street of Echoland where there’s a lot of great restaurants and bars. You can walk there in about 10 minutes although the sidewalk will probably be covered in snow/slush/mud. If you are looking for a major supermarket, the closest one I found is called The Big Hakuba, which is about a 25-minute walk from the pension. I walked there a few times, but just be warned that you do go down a random back street for a bit. If it is dark, it might feel a little scary since there are no lights except from the houses. That said, I walked it using my phone’s flashlight and it was totally fine.

 

How to Get To and From Hakuba Valley as a Solo Snowboarder

If you’ve been following my trip, you would know that I was just in Nozawa Onsen. So, my route would be from Nozawa Onsen to Hakuba Valley which probably isn’t going to be the route most people take. Most people are probably coming from Tokyo. I’ll explain how to get to Hakuba Valley from both Tokyo and Nozawa Onsen down below, but if you’re coming from somewhere else, I recommend just Google mapping it. 

How to Get Hakuba Valley, Japan (without a car) from Tokyo

Step 1: Get to Tokyo Station

If you are coming from Haneda Airport (HND) or Narita Airport (NRT), you’ll want to first get yourself to Tokyo Station. There are multiple options to get to Tokyo Station like by bus or train, but I’ve found that the bus is the most convenient (especially if you plan on bringing all your gear with you). The train stresses me out because there are so many people and it’s just so crowded. With that being said, I did end up taking the train just because the bus timing didn’t work out for me.

  • Trains: From HND Airport, I took the Tokyo Monorail then transfer to the Keihin-Tohoku line. There are multiple ways to get to Tokyo Station by train so I would just look up what’s best for you on Google Maps. 
  • Buses: Here is the bus schedule for HND>Tokyo Station and NRT>Tokyo Station. Just be aware that bus times are few and they don’t really run late at night.
Step 2: Get to Nagano Station

You’ll now have to catch the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Nagano Station. The train ride will take 1.5 hours and cost ¥8,340 (~$55 USD at the time of posting). You can buy the ticket from the machine or from the JR counter. PLEASE keep in mind that there is always a line when buying shinkansen tickets. Do NOT wait until the last minute to buy your ticket because you will miss your train.

Step 3: Get to Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal

From Nagano Station, you will have to take a bus and it cost ¥3,500 (~$24 USD) at the time of posting. There will be another queue to buy this ticket so don’t be surprised if you don’t get on the bus time that you wanted.  For such an technologically advanced country, it still always surprises me that you still need a paper ticket and can’t do everything online. Also, you might as well buy a round trip ticket so you don’t have to deal with the ticket line when you return.

It will drop you off at Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal. From there, you will have to figure out how to get to your accommodations since the valley is pretty spread out. You can either get a taxi or see if your accommodations can pick you up like mine did. 

 

How to Get Hakuba Valley, Japan (without a car) from Nozawa Onsen

Step 1: Get to Iiyama Station

From Nozawa Onsen, you’ll want to take the Nozawa Liner from the Nozawa Onsen Bus Terminal back to Iiyama Station. For times, I would just check Google Maps or ask your accommodations. They should know since they probably offer a service to drop you off at the bus station. 

Step 2: Get to Nagano Station

Next, you’ll want to take the Iiyama Line to Nagano Station which cost me ¥590 at the time of posting. The Iiyama Line is a local line so the train is small that what you would normally see. Also, I did not have an issue with bringing my snowboard bag and luggage on board. Had plenty of room. If you couldn’t get your Hakuba bus ticket at Iiyama, this is where you’ll be getting your ticket now. You literally can’t miss the line since everyone else is probably queueing up for it too. I believe the easiest and only way to get to Hakuba is by bus.

Step 3: Get to Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal

From Nagano Station, you will have to take a bus and it cost ¥3,500 (~$24 USD) at the time of posting. There will be another queue to buy this ticket so don’t be surprised if you don’t get on the bus time that you wanted.  For such a technologically advanced country, it still always surprises me that you still need a paper ticket and can’t do everything online. Also, you might as well buy a round trip ticket so you don’t have to deal with the ticket line when you return.

It will drop you off at Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal. From there, you will have to figure out how to get to your accommodations since the valley is pretty spread out. You can either get a taxi or see if your accommodations can pick you up like mine did. 

 

Getting Around Hakuba Valley

If I haven’t mentioned it enough, Hakuba Valley is made of 10 resorts that are NOT all connected. Below I have listed all the resorts and which ones you can travel between. Otherwise, you need to take the bus. There are too many shuttle bus schedules for me to list but you can find them all here. If you don’t want to wait for the bus, there’s plenty of taxis driving around as well. I would ask your accommodations to help you book or for a number.

 

How to Depart Hakuba Valley

You’ll want to take the same bus back to Nagano Station. Remember to buy a round trip ticket at Nagano station so you don’t have to deal with standing in line again. The line at the Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal is also crowded. 

 

Skiing/Snowboarding Hakuba Valley

Level of Difficulty of the Slope (USA vs. Japan)

Japan follows the European system more closely than the U.S. system. Japanese resorts concentrate mostly on a 3-tiered color system: Green, Red, and Black (although some resorts might have Blues).

USA Japan
Green Green / Blue (although not as common)
Blue Red (Intermediate)
Black Black
Double Black —

 

The Resort

Again, you should know that Hakuba Valley is made up of ten different resorts that are mostly NOT connected. A couple are connected to another one but for the most part, each resort it’s own and is pretty spread out

  • Hakuba 47: This is the closest resort to where I was staying. I would say that if you like the park, this is your mountain. If I remember correctly, there were only a few runs and they were kind of narrow. I usually ended up snowboarding over to Goryu by the middle of the day. For photography enthusiasts though, some of the most beautilful mountains you can photograph are here.

  • Goryu: This resort is connected with Hakuba 47, but always double check if you can cross over. One of the days, they weren’t running the lift that lets you cross over so I had to take the bus over instead. This was probably my favorite resort. Again, still a smaller resort but I liked it because there’s a wide run near the base where it’s great for practicing. Since I wanted to get better on switch, this is where I spent most of my time. This hill is great for snowboarder watching as well. There are so many great snowboarders doing tricks, carving, buttering, etc. Not to mention their outfits were so STEAZY! I wish I could come close to even looking that cool.

  • Happo-One: Not going to lie, this resort OWNED me. It was so icy and it was like all the snow was blown off the runs. I probably did two runs and called it quits so I can’t really say if this was a good mountain or not. If I ever go back though, I would love to try Restaurant Pilar. It sits at the top of Happo-One and has amazing views. It’s recommend that you make reservations though since the restaurant is small.

 

Hakuba Valley Lift Tickets

Hakuba Valley offers an all-mountain day pass and single-mountain day pass. To be honest, I think everyone should just stick to one mountain per day. Yes, technically you can move mountains but since they are so spread a part and the bus times aren’t frequent, you would only really be able to hit up one extra mountain on an all-mountain pass. Below is an idea of what it costs for an all-mountain day pass. I’ve also added links for each separate mountain for your convenience. 

 

Epic Pass

If you have the Epic Pass, all 10 Hakuba Valley resorts are included in your pass. You get five CONSECUTIVE days. It cannot be split up. Also, you will need to go to the window to get your Hakuba Valley Pass.

 

Where to Dine/Shop in Hakuba Valley

Since I was staying in Echoland, all of the places I went out to eat were near here so this list is going to be mostly from this area.

Echoland

  • Japanese Dining Kyoto: This is my favorite place that I ate at during my stay in Hakuba Valley. I got the sukiyaki and it was one of the best things I ate during my whole trip around the world. This sukiyaki was so good that I started ordering sukiyaki everywhere and nothing compared back to this one. If I had only one place to go back to eat in Hakuba, it would be this one! The restaurant gets pretty busy so I would come and put down your name here first and then go walk around town. 
  • BOS: Every time I come to Japan, I always crave okonomiyaki. If you don’t know what that is, it’s essentially a cabbage pancake mixed with some sort of meat and drenched in some delicious thick, savory, and tangy sauce. Surprisingly, there’s a popular okonomiyaki place right in Echoland and about a 5-minute walk from where I was staying. I heard it gets super busy and I didn’t have a reservation so I decided to try my luck right when it opened and luckily I was to grab a seat right in front of the chef. I highly recommend getting the gyoza and whatever okonomiyaki you’re feeling like. By the time I left, there was a line of probably 10 people waiting so if you don’t have a reservation, make sure you get there right when it opens.
  • Izakaya Hie Hakuba: I was lucky enough to make a reservation for this place. If you like izakaya food, you definitely are going to love this restaurant. You can order everything by tablet (which has an English version) so it makes it easier if you don’t know a lot of Japanese. Definitely get ALL the chicken skewers. My favorites were the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Also, keep in mind that this is an izakaya so there is a seating charge and you’re required to order a drink (even if it’s water).
  • Asunaro Vino Bar: This tiny wine bar serves incredible tapas and instantly became one of my favorite finds. I ended up here one night, but honestly, I wish I had discovered it sooner. It is exactly the kind of intimate Japanese bar I love. I could genuinely see myself coming here every day after the slopes, unwinding with a glass of wine and chatting with the owner in my VERY broken Japanese. He did thank me for trying to speak it that one night though which made me feel proud that I tried at least.
  • Calico: If you’re looking for a lively westernize cocktail bar, look no further. This place is definitely large by Japanese standards and has different rooms and floors. English is widely spoken since I believe it’s owned by Australians.

On The Mountain

  • Subway: I didn’t really eat on the mountain since I bought groceries everyday to bring on the mountain with me. But if I did eat, I always got Subway at the base of Goryu. I usually never eat Subway back in the States, but the Japanese always seem to do everything better so I wanted to check it out. They also have different flavors so it was fun trying something that you can’t get back at home. Also, did I mention that a 6” is only like ¥550 ($3.50) which is so cheap for mountain food. They do serve a whole plethora of other cuisines that definitely looked more appealing but it’s kind of hard to beat a $3.50 sandwich on a mountain.

Supermarkets

  • The Big Hakuba: This is a legit supermarket. Fair warning, it’s pretty far by foot. Probably a 25-minute walk from my accommodations and another 25 minutes back. Also, the route you have to take includes a small dark residential back road. I walked it a bunch of times and I was totally fine. I just used my flashlight from my phone so I could see the road. If I haven’t scared you, this supermarket is totally worth visiting. It has everything! They even have a good selection of fancy wine if anyone is interested.
  • Yamazaki Shop: If you’re looking for a small fast conbini store, there’s one in the center of Echoland. I’ve heard this place sometimes likes to make its own schedule but when I was there, I never had an issue with it being it open. I usually went in the evening hours before dinner time. It has basics like bread, drinks, pre-made food, snacks etc.

 

General FAQs

Do You Need Japanese Yen?

Yes. Japan is still largely a cash-based society, and many places only accept cash. I did use my credit card once in a while, but most of the time I paid with cash.

Is English Widely Spoken?

Not really, but do not let that deter you. Even though Japanese is primarily spoken, most places have English menus or pictures that you can point to.

Is It Safe Traveling There as a Solo Snowboarder or Skier?

Yes, it is very safe. Japan is one of the safest countries you could ever visit. In terms of being on the mountain, always use caution if you plan to ski or snowboard solo in the backcountry or in tree areas.

 

Conclusion

I know I didn’t have the chance to explore all of Hakuba Valley, but I don’t think I would have paid for a lift ticket if it wasn’t already included in my Epic Pass. Even though Hakuba Valley sounds like big resort, it actually split up between a bunch of smaller resorts and in addition, it’s not that convenient to each other. You can probably finish one resort within a couple hours and then you’ll have to time it correctly to catch the right bus to a different resort. I’m glad I definitely went, but I think there are much better resorts in Japan that you can visit. But if you have the Epic Pass, it makes sense to go here.

 

Hakuba Valley Pictures

Hakuba 47

Hakuba 47 Gondola

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